The Cost

$1.81 US per fluid ounce on CremoCompany.com

The Ingredients

Water (Aqua), Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Oleosomes, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Jojoba Esters, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Pentylene Glycol, Algae Extract, Mugwort (Artemisia Vulgaris) Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Xanthan Gum, Allantoin, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Methylpropanediol, Farnesol, Linalool.

Overview

The product contains an emulsion of oils and water, with additional moisturizers, in a xanthan gum and polymer thickened base.

Safflower and avocado oil will provide emollience to the skin as well as anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant benefits due to their linoleic acid and vitamin E content. These ingredients may clog the pores of those sensitive to acne.

A synthetic film former, polyisobutene and jojoba esters will help create a barrier on the skin reducing the rate of evaporation of water out of the skin.

Humectants such as urea, and glycols (neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and pentylene glycol) will attract and bind moisture to the skin over time.

Algae extract, aloe vera and allantoin provide skin benefits such as anti-oxidant activity, and anti-inflammatory effects.

Things to consider…

Because the product does not contain SPF, it would be best to use this product either before a sunscreen during the day time, or in the evening.

The product does contain the fragrance linalool, which does have cytotoxic and possibly estrogenic effects. Though the concentration of linalool is likely low, the ingredient has been shown to be active in even minute concentrations.

Mugwort extract is relatively unstudied as a skin care ingredient, but is known to be an allergen, as well as contain the toxin thujole. It does contain an active ingredient also present in Eucalyptus, but the benefits may not outweigh the risks.

The product is preserved with phenoxyethanol, which some people may have concerns with. However the dangers of phenoxyethanol may be overstated and some have not been fully studied in humans. A preservative is required to reduce bacterial and fungal growth.

Package Stability

The Cremo Cream is packaged in a white opaque squeeze bottle, this will reduce the product’s exposure to air and contaminants which will prolong the effectiveness of its ingredients, as well as keep bacterial contamination low. Ideal packaging would be an airless pump packaging, as this would reduce exposure to an absolute minimum. Airless pump packaging is generally more expensive and presents a design challenge.

What’s in it?

Structural/Functional

Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Oleosomes, safflower oleosomes are produced by Botaneco. They are made of safflower oil, the emulsifier lecithin and a protein oleosin. The lecithin content allows formulators to use this ingredient to prevent oil and water from separating. Oleosins may act as a humectant, by attracting water to the skin from the environment. Safflower oleosomes present formulators a natural alternative to synthetic emulsifiers. Whether they have skin or functional benefits beyond a regular emulsion is not known, but unlikely.

Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate is a film forming thickener. It can also act as a solvent (the glycol portion) and help dissolve ingredients that do not dissolve in water or oil. It can also function as a lubricant,providing a slippery texture to the product when applied. As a glycol it can also act as a humectant bringing water to the skin from the environment.

Pentylene Glycol is used as a solvent to help dissolve ingredients that may not dissolve in water or oil. As a glycol it can also act as a humectant bringing water to the skin from the environment.

Xanthan Gum is a water soluble thickener, it helps suspend and stabilize an emulsion. It is a the coat of a strain of bacteria, which is harvested off of corn most commonly. It’s most commonly used to keep things in water suspended and to prevent them from settling, like in salad oils. Xanthan gum as a polysaccharide can have some humectant benefits to the skin, it can also form a layer on the skin (if in high enough concentration) that can tighten and smooth the skin temporarily. Xanthan gum has been found to be non-irritating and sensitizing to the eyes and skin.

Polyacrylate-13 is a polymer thickener.

Polysorbate 20 functions as an emulsifier and is a non-ionic detergent. Polysorbate 20 has a low risk of irritation, and can enhance skin penetration of active skin care ingredients (like medications) in certain conditions.

Moisturizing

Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Oleosomes, due to its content of safflower and lecithin, this ingredient also acts as a moisturizer to the skin. High linoleic acid strains of Safflower contain around 70% lenoleic acid which has shown anti-inflammatory, moisturizing (another study), anti-acne and hyperpigmentation benefits. However we don’t know if this product uses a high linoleic acid or a low linoleic acid strain.

Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, used as an emollient, avocado oil has a similar fatty acid structure as olive oil. A higher palmitoleic fatty acid content makes the oil slightly thicker than olive oil. Avocado oil is relatively low in the skin beneficial fatty acid linoleic acid, about 10%. Linoleic acid has shown anti-inflammatory, moisturizing (another study), anti-acne and hyperpigmentation benefits. Avocado oil does contain higher levels of the antioxidant vitamin E, but the amount is dependent on the variety of avocado.

Hydroxyethyl Urea is a compound that is found in urine, however it is now manufactured. Urea acts as a moisturizer, comparable to glycerin. It offers benefits over glycerin due to its texture, it is light, water soluble and not sticky or film forming. A study found that a lotion containing 10% urea improved the skin’s water barrier function, reducing water loss to the environment. A study found that urea may also reduce irritation caused by sodium lauryl sulfate. Anecdotally urea has been used as a weak exfoliant, however this study showed that application of urea did not increase skin shedding.

Jojoba esters are hydrogenized and/or interesterified jojoba oils. This produces a solid waxy product which is emollient and barrier forming on the skin. Jojoba ester forms a barrier on the skin, similar to petrolatum, which can temporarily increase water content in the skin. Liquid jojoba oil is also an ester.

Polyisobutene is a synthetic oil that acts like petrolatum in forming a water proof barrier on the skin. Studies have found that in common usage levels (between 1.44% and 4.00%) it posed no irritation, allergenic or photoreactive risk to the skin.

Antioxidants and Actives

Algae Extract describe a variety of possible strains of algae. Certain strains of algae extract have exhibited photo-protective and anti-oxidant effects (reduced UVA and UVB induced damage) as well as moisturizing benefits. Algae extract may pose an allergenic risk to those sensitive.

Mugwort (Artemisia Vulgaris) Extract as a skin care ingredient has not been studied extensively, however its allergenic potential in those with hayfever has been researched thoroughly. Mugwort does contain eucalyptol as well as the toxin thujone. Eucalyptol may be antibacterial, analgesic and anti-inflammatory, it may also be  may also be an irritant to some people. Thujone may cause rash and irritation when applied topically.

Aloe Vera, in common-knowledge is known as a skin soother, healer, and sunburn treatment, However research backing up these claims are a little bit scant and sometimes conflicting (This study found that aloe had both anti-oxidants and pro-oxidants which damaged DNA). Aloe contains salicylic acid, magnesium lactate and gel polysaccharides. Salicylic acid acts as an anti-inflammatory on the skin. Magnesium lactate may also reduce histamine production in the skin which is largely responsible for causing itchiness. Polysaccharides act as moisturizers and water binders. Aloe vera may also possess antibacterial and anti-fungal properties, but that hasn’t been thoroughly researched yet on human skin. In rats, aloe vera gel was found to improve wound healing, specifically a glycoprotein found in aloe vera may be responsible. Aloe vera was shown to reduce erythema (redness and inflammation) caused by UV radiation in a study.

Allantoin is an ingredient found in comfrey as well as mammalian urine. Allantoin will help skin shed, and may act as an antioxidant. Allantoin has been shown to increase skin healing in rats. Allantoin is combined with onion extract in a scar treatment gel, though silicone scar gels may be more effective.

Preservatives

Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Methylpropanediol are components of a preservative manufactured by Inolex under the name Phenostat. Caprylhydroxamic acid functions as a chelator, binding metal ions which can cause undesirable chemical reactions in the product. Phenoxyethanol has allergenic potential, slight irritation potential. A study found that phenoxyethanol may penetrate the skin, though the test was performed on animals. Phenoxyethanol can also break down in to the toxins phenol and acetaldehyde, but only in the presence of very strong acids. I’ve seen mention on-line regarding pheoxyethanol and it’s possible estrogenic effect, but have not seen any studies to corroborate this. Methylpropanediol is used as a solvent and carrier for the two aforementioned ingredients.

Fragrances

Farnesol is used as a fragrance that enhances the “sweet” smell, of most commonly floral fragrances. Farnesol has anti-bacterial and anti-fungal (another study) activity. High concentrations of farnesol pose an irritation to risk, low concentrations of farnesol may pose a risk to those with sensitive skin.

Linalool is a component of lavender essential oil and used as a fragrance. Linalool has been found to be cytotoxic at minute doses to human fibroblast cells which are responsible for production of collagen and other connective tissue.  Linalool also exhibited estrogenic and anti-androgenic activity in a study using human skin cell cultures (in vitro).

The Claim

Quoted from the Cremo Company website, “It contains a calming, natural antiinflammatory, Triple-A Complex, rich in plant amino acids & polypeptides: it immediately & dramatically heals & soothes. Used for 2 weeks, you will see visibly improved skin. It contains unique microscopic moisture beads, Oleosomes, and other compounds so it hydrates for 24 hours without leaving skin sticky, shiny or greasy.

This also make it uniquely light and fluid, not pudding-like, so it spreads and absorbs quickly. It won’t clog your pores. It leaves your skin looking and feeling absolutely fresh, natural and healthy. Enjoy!”

Quoted from the Cremo Company website, “No Fragrances or Dyes.”

The Match Up

“It contains a calming, natural antiinflammatory, Triple-A Complex, rich in plant amino acids & polypeptides: it immediately & dramatically heals & soothes.” The Triple-A Complex is made up of the Algae and Mugwort extract and a third unidentified ingredient, possibly Aloe Vera. The term “Triple-A Complex” is a marketing tool, and no studies have shown that these three ingredients enhance each other’s skin benefits, nor are there studies showing that algae and mugwort extract work synergistically. Alone, algae and aloe vera do provide skin benefits.

“Used for 2 weeks, you will see visibly improved skin” This is quite dependent on the individual, but most people will see improvement in the skin using any skin care product after 2 weeks, especially if they do not have an allergic reaction or irritation.

“It contains unique microscopic moisture beads, Oleosomes, and other compounds so it hydrates for 24 hours without leaving skin sticky, shiny or greasy.” Oleosomes are not unique to the Cremo Company and are no different from other oil in water emulsions in their effect on the skin. 24 hour moisturization is again, dependent on the person, but the glycol humectants in the product will help increase skin moisture over time.

“This also make it uniquely light and fluid, not pudding-like, so it spreads and absorbs quickly. It won’t clog your pores.” The lightness and fluidity of the product has no relation to the olesomes or the “Triple-A Complex”, it’s solely dependent on how much thickener was used in the creation of the product. No ingredients in this product have high comedogenicity (pore clogging) potential, but again those sensitive to developing acne may have issue with the product.

“No Fragrances or Dyes.” Unfortunately the product does contain the fragrances farnesol and linalool. Linalool is a problematic ingredient to the skin as it exhibits cytotoxic and possibly estrogenic activity.

Otoko Organics Wet Shave Essentials Shaving Soap

The Claim

Quoted from the Otoko Organics website, “Made from 100% organically grown natural coconut, palm, soy and jojoba oil with aloe vera and pear essence, Otoko Organics contain only cold pressed organically grown plant extracts and the highest quality plant essences.

Otoko Organics Wet Shave Essentials provides a certified organic way to deeply clean and soften your skin while lifting and softening your hair follicles before shaving.

A rich soft lather with no harsh chemicals helps resist skin irritations and shaving burn. Vitamin E and aloe vera soothe and protect your skin. Anti-allergens and perfume free to safe guard from allergic reactions. Naturally occurring astringents penetrate pores to remove excess sebum, oils, skin impurities and dead skin cells. Our naturally rich foaming formula removes air pockets allow the razor to glide smoothly across the skin, resisting cuts and skin rash. Foam levels can be individually tailored to suit your skin type.

Otoko Organics Wet Shave Essentials is completely free of harsh caustics, animal fats, sulphonic, synthetic emulsifiers, petroleum products, sodium lauryl sulphate, terpenes or other reactive chemistries.

Otoko Organics Wet Shave Essential is a hydrating and healing emollient with excellent anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory actions.

We encourage you to compare our ingredients against your current brands.”

The Ingredients

Jojoba extract, Deionized water, Proprietary no-ionic surfactants derived from soy and corn, Aloe vera and Glycerine

The Cost

$8.16 US per oz on TheRazorShop.com

What’s in it?

This product is a bit tricky to review as the ingredients are listed in a non-standard format. The product is Australian which requires that ingredients be listed by either their common name or by the INCI (International Nomenclature of Chemical Ingredients) standard. The EU and Canada require that cosmetics have their ingredients labelled using INCI terminology. The US’ FDA currently uses INCI approved terms CTFA’s ingredient dictionary, but is transitioning to the INCI standard.

There are also discrepancies of the ingredients, as the ingredient listing on the packaging makes no reference to coconut oil in the product, but the statement “Made from 100% organically grown natural coconut…” is present on their website.

“Proprietary no-ionic surfactants derived from soy and corn” is not descriptive enough to understand what the ingredients are. From the natural and organic image of Otoko Organics, one would assume that it is a traditional saponified oil soap made with soy and corn oil – and possibly coconut oil.

However they state that the ingredient is non-ionic and “free of harsh caustics”. All traditionally made saponified oil soaps are anionic, meaning they carry a negative charge, and require a caustic to produce. So it’s likely that the surfactants included are non-ionic detergents which are derived from coconut, soy and corn oil. There are many of these detergents. Cocamide DEA is a common one which is made from the reaction of fatty acids (from coconut oil) and diethanolamine. Cocomide DEA and similarly created detergents are not certified organic by any of the certifying agencies.

As you can see unclear and non-extensive disclosure of ingredients makes a product very difficult to review! And it doesn’t end with the surfactants…

Unfortunately jojoba extract could also mean a brevy of things. Jojoba or it’s scientific name Simmondsia Chinensis can include simmondsia chinesis seed oil, butter, seed extract, leaf extract, cera, and powder. Jojoba could also be jojoba esters, hydrogenated jojoba oil, jojoba wax PEG-120 esters, hydrolyzed jojoba esters, hydrolyzed jojoba proteins, jojoba amino acids, hydrogenated jojoba wax, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed jojoba protein. The point is, the term “jojoba extract” unfortunately, means nothing and isn’t concise enough.

Aloe vera and glycerine are listed properly

Aloe Vera, in common-knowledge is known as a skin soother, healer, and sunburn treatment, However research backing up these claims are a little bit scant and sometimes conflicting (This study found that aloe had both anti-oxidants and pro-oxidants which damaged DNA). Aloe contains salicylic acid, magnesium lactate and gel polysaccharides. Salicylic acid acts as an anti-inflammatory on the skin. Magnesium lactate may also reduce histamine production in the skin which is largely responsible for causing itchiness. Polysaccharides act as moisturizers and water binders. Aloe vera may also possess antibacterial and anti-fungal properties, but that hasn’t been thoroughly researched yet on human skin. In rats, aloe vera gel was found to improve wound healing, specifically a glycoprotein found in aloe vera may be responsible. Aloe vera was shown to reduce erythema (redness and inflammation) caused by UV radiation in a study.

Glycerin is a humectant, meaning it can bind moisture from the surrounding atmosphere in to the skin. It is naturally formed from the saponification process in making saponified oil soap. It’s possible the manufacturers have added extra glycerin in the product, especially if the product is detergent based.

The Match Up

I will only be examining the claims the company makes in regards to their ingredients, and not the product’s ability to soften and lubricate facial hair for shaving or how it performs as a shaving soap.

“Made from 100% organically grown natural coconut, palm, soy and jojoba oil with aloe vera and pear essence, Otoko Organics contain only cold pressed organically grown plant extracts and the highest quality plant essences.” Only soy and palm oil make it on to their ingredient list. By this description we would assume they created traditional saponified oil soap, but they state that it is non-ionic, suggesting that the soy and palm oil are detergents. I am not aware of any detergent manufacturing company that uses organic palm or soy oil to create their detergents, it would increase costs and wouldn’t allow the resultant product to be classified as organic anyways. Coconut oil is missing from the ingredients list, and jojoba oil is listed as “jojoba extract”. Aloe Vera is present on the ingredients list, but pear essence isn’t. Pear essence could either be a pear extract, or a fragrance ingredient known as isoamyl acetate, which can be irritating.

“…certified organic…” Part of the benefit of passing organic certification is the ability to display their certification standard logo on the product or website. Unfortunately they don’t go in to detail about their certification, or which ingredients are certified.

“Vitamin E and aloe vera soothe and protect your skin. Anti-allergens and perfume free to safe guard from allergic reactions.” Unrefined palm oil contains tocotrienol, which is part of the vitamin E family, however since there is the possibility that it is not a traditionally saponified oil soap, this vitamin wouldn’t be present in the detergent form. In regards to the hypoallergenic and fragrance free claims, the product contains soy (in some undetermined form) and possibly isoamyl acetate.

“Naturally occurring astringents penetrate pores to remove excess sebum, oils, skin impurities and dead skin cells.” The product does contain aloe vera may which work as a weak astringent (tissue tightener), however it’s the soap or detergent which is penetrating the oil and pores, not the aloe vera.

“…anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory actions…“ Surfactants on their own are enough to remove bacteria from the skin, however there are no anti-microbial ingredients (Aloe vera’s antimicrobial effects aren’t fully studied) in this product. While aloe vera can act as an anti-inflammatory, non-ionic detergents can be very irritating and inflammatory. Unfortunately we don’t know what’s included in the product.

The Verdict: Disqualified

I’ve had to disqualify this product because of the unclear labelling of the ingredients. It’s impossible to say what is actually in this product. The terminology on the website suggests that it is a non-ionic detergent, which many chemical steps removed, originates with coconut, soy and palm oil fatty acids.

Jojoba is also present in this product, but again, it’s unclear what form of jojoba it is. There are hydrolyzed jojoba esters which have the translucent, gel like texture of the soap product. Hydrolyzed jojoba esters are great lubricants, emollient and water resistant. They can bind to hair, soften them and resist being washed away. But again, we don’t know. It could just be jojoba oil.

If we assume the best of the ingredients, the product could be non-irritating and well formulated product. But we can also assume the worse and find that the product is poorly formulated and irritating to the skin. This is why it is important for companies to list their ingredients properly in a clear and standard manner.

A properly displayed ingredient list acts as an unbiased description of what is in the product. It’s absolutely necessary because companies will market their product to entice you to buy them. With a food example, a consumer may be informed that a cereal is a “healthy start to the day”, but by examining the ingredients and nutritional information learn that it contains 200 grams of sugar per serving. Without this honest display of information, we can’t make an informed decision as a consumer.