Posted in April 2012

Make your own Hair Clay and Treatment

What you’ll need

1 sanitized jar or container
Coconut oil or Palm Kernel oil (any grade)
Kaolin clay or Bentonite clay (dry powder)
Optional: Fragrant essential oils or cologne

Where to get supplies

Most grocery stores sell coconut oil, and some ethnic markets carry palm kernel oil (Just make sure it’s a solid, not a liquid).

It might be more convenient to go to a health food store though, as their sizes will be smaller and they will usually carry kaolin and bentonite clay as well.

A health food store will also carry fragrant essential oils, they’re likely to be the most expensive ingredient in this recipe.

Nature’s Way Extra Virgin Coconut Oil ($8.97 for 16 fluid ounces on Amazon)

OKONATUR 100% Organic Extra Virgin Red Palm Oil ($14.00 for 16 fluid ounces on Amazon)

Starwest Botanical’s Bentonite Clay ($7.75 for 1 pound on Amazon)

East and West’s Kaolin White Clay ($6.99 for 1 pound on Amazon)

How to make it

This recipe will take a little trial and error on your part, to get the proper ratio of clay and oil.

Make sure the coconut oil or palm kernel oil you’re using is solid at room temperature.

Kaolin clay is generally white whereas bentonite clay is a bit darker, and turns grey when wet. Those with lighter hair may want to use kaolin, and those with darker hair may want to use bentonite. However, I’ve used kaolin clay on my black hair and never had an issue.

Start off by mixing equal parts of the clay and oil together and applying it to your hair. The oil will help give your hair texture and a bit of hold, while the clay will keep it matte (not shiny) and give it a “grungy” and slept in texture.

If you find that the mixture is too oily, reduce the amount of oil. If it’s too dry and pasty for you, reduce the amount of clay.

When you have a good idea of the ratio that you like, melt the oil over a double boiler (Fill the bottom pot with water, and put the coconut oil in the upper pot or bowl). Once the oil is melted, mix in the clay and fragrant essential oils or a few sprays of cologne, take it off the heat, pour it into your container and stir occasionally as it solidifies.

You can also skip melting the oil and just mix it together directly, but the mixture will not be as uniform.

If after a little while you find it too oily or too drying, simply melt the hair clay using the double boiler method again and add in more oil or clay.

(Write down the ratio you use, so you can make it again!)

How to use it

This is essentially the same as commercial hair clays, if you look at the ingredient list of many popular brands you’ll see the first ingredient is petrolatum and the second is usually clay. With this recipe we’ve replaced the petrolatum with an oil that can penetrate the hair shaft and provide conditioning benefits as well.

The length and bulk of your hair will determine how much product you need, always start with a little bit as you can always keep adding more.

Rub the hair clay in the palms of your hand to warm it up a bit, and brush it through your hair with your fingertips. Try to avoid getting too much on the hair closest to your face, as it may look greasy.

Play around with your hair style and experiment, there’s absolutely no right or wrong way to style your hair – despite what others may tell you.

How it works

A lot of us have experienced the phenomenon where our hair looks better and is easier to style a few days after not washing it. This is because of the build up of sebum in the hair, which gives the hair more texture, shine and for some manageability.

The oil (coconut or palm kernel oil) actually has similar makeup with the sebum of your hair. This allows it to also penetrate the hair shaft, increasing it’s strength and flexibility. A study found that coconut oil was able to penetrate in to the cortex of the hair shaft, unlike some other oils and petrolatum. Coconut oil and palm kernel oil have almost an identical triglyceride make up, so they will function the same for your hair. They do smell different though.

Coconut oil (and by extension palm oil) was also found in a study to reduce damage caused by bleaching, brushing and boiling.

Another study found that unsaturated fats (coconut and palm kernel oil contain about 6% unsaturated fats) were able to prevent fungal growth on the scalp and hair.

So this gives you the benefits of having unwashed hair, without the downsides…like that particularly pungent smell of dirty hair.

The clay helps absorb a bit of excess oil, and will also give your hair a bit more texture and “grunge”. It will keep your hair from looking overly shiny. Some people may prefer to have a lot of clay, and some a little. When I had long hair (about down to the cheek), I found I needed less clay in my recipe.

Thanks to Matt for inspiring me to write this post!

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Does Accutane (Isotretinoin) cause bowel disease?

The Question

Does Accutane increase your risk of developing inflammatory bowel disease?

The Answer

The makers of Accutane, Roche, have been sued in a few high-profile cases where it was to be proven that the use of the medication caused the patient to develop inflammatory bowel disease (IBD), or other bowel diseases.

Inflammatory bowel disease, while the cause is not fully understood, is thought to be triggered by environmental stresses that awaken an underlying genetic condition. What the medical and scientific field need to determine is whether or not the medication isotretinoin is one of these stressors.

The fact that Roche has discontinued selling and marketing Accutane has no bearing on whether or not isotretinoin causes IBD or not. Those decisions are ruled by a court of law, which are not an exploration in to medical truth. A good summary of the first case that Roche lost is provided here by The Washington Post. Essentially the jury was convinced that Roche had not labelled the drug to include IBD as a possible side-effect, whereas Roche argued that the cause of IBD is still unknown. Roche appealed this judgement and the settlement was increased to $25 million after a retrial. Roche has appealed the decision.

What does the literature say?

I just want to forewarn my readers, I am not a statistician, my passion lies in the formulation of skin care. I’ve done my best to understand and present the literature, but take my writing as a starting point to your research as opposed to an answer. If I’ve made a mistake or misinterpreted something, please comment below and let me know!

The first study I’d like to look at is an overview of case reports and clinical trials looking for a correlation (remember: correlation does not mean causation) between isotretinoin treatment and inflammatory bowel disease.

According to the researchers, approximately 45 000 cases of IBD occur a year, and approximately 400 000 people use Accutane within the US. The total US population at the time was 306 million.

The expected number of cases of IBD of the people who used Accutane would be 59, if Accutane use and IBD were completely unrelated. If the number is significantly greater than 59, there is a stronger association between Accutane use and IBD. However, there’s also the possibility that people with IBD are more likely to take Accutane (Which may sound ridiculous, but is statistically plausible).

FDA MedWatch only reports, on average, 14 cases of patients on Accutane developing IBD a year. The researchers state that this number is low due to underreporting.

So this lack of a strong correlation may be due to the data they’re getting reports of Accutane use and subsequent development of IBD from.

Another correlational study of US insurance patients, which is widely cited did actually find a strong positive relationship between Accutane use and subsequent onset of IBD, specifically ulcerative colitis. While it’s commonly stated the study consisted of over 8000 people, 8000 was actually the population. Only 60 subject histories were actually used in the study. Of those 60 subjects, 36 were controls and 24 were cases. The 24 cases were selected because they had exposure to isotretinoin in the 1 year prior to being diagnosed with IBD. Their analysis revealed that previous exposure to isotretinoin increased one’s risk of developing IBD by 1.68 times. In particular, cases were at a 4.36 time greater risk of developing ulcerative colitis, whereas the risk of Crohn’s disease was not increased compared to the controls. They also found a statistical increase in risk when cases were on higher doses of Accutane and for longer durations.

A similar correlational study performed in Manitoba, Canada found no correlation between Accutane and the development of IBD.

The previous authors argue however that their results are more valid, in their study exposure to isotretinoin preceded the diagnosis of IBD by under a year (In the Manitoba study, some had taken Accutane over 5 years previous to being diagnosed) and also that the Manitoba study did not account for dose of Accutane.

In a letter to the editor, 2 authors (employed by Roche) put forward a few concerns regarding the methodology of the US insurance patient study. One of particuar interest, and mentioned by the authors, was their non-inclusion of patients that had previously used antibiotics to treat their acne.

A study examining the use of oral tetracyclines and the incidence of IBD also found a correlation between their use and the disease. Those who had use tetracycline/oxytetracycline were at a 1.43 times greater risk, and those who had used doxycycline were at a 1.63 times greater risk. When looking at Crohn’s disease the increase of risk of those on tetracycline/oxytetracycline were 1.61 and 2.25 for doxycycline.

Because Accutane is generally never prescribed as a first treatment to treat acne, it’s possible that the IBD could be due to previous antibiotic use, it’s also possible that antibiotic and Accutane use have a cumulative effect in the development of IBD.

However, other studies have shown that antibiotics may be helpful in treating systems of irritable bowel syndrome (IBS). Antibiotic rifamixin use improved symptoms for up to 10 weeks after treatment in a small study, and another study found that reducing the overgrowth of bacteria in the small intestine improved IBS symptoms as well.

Unfortunately, because an experimental study hasn’t been performed yet, we don’t have a stronger answer on whether or not isotretinoin is a risk factor in developing IBD. In vitro studies of the effect of isotretinoin on the intestine would help clarify the relation of its effect, one paper suggested that istretinoin may have a role in modulating inflammatory and immune responses in the gut.

So while it certainly isn’t outside of the realm of possibility that isotretinoin can trigger IBD, there may be other confounding factors such as previous antibiotic treatment, being susceptible to severe acne, statistical error and data that isn’t robust which are affecting results and conclusions.

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Could a Plasma flashlight treat acne?

Chinese and Australian scientists have developed a battery-operated handheld plasma treatment device, purported to rid the skin of bacteria almost instantly.

What’s exciting is that not only can the device kill bacteria on the surface of the skin, it may also be able to penetrate below the skin as well.

The published article is actually free for a short duration (30 days after publication), you can read it here.

The cold plasma works by generating reactive oxygen species throughout a structure, in the experiment it was able to entirely kill a bacteria’s biofilm, which was 25.5 micrometers thick. 25.5 micrometers is equivalent to 0.0025 centimeters.

Whether or not these reactive oxygen species are safe for a living subject has not yet been studied.

This is different from other handheld acne treatment devices, such as the Zeno, which use sustained and precise heat to reduce bacteria.

In a news publication, the researchers mention that the device is cheaply manufactured at only $100 per unit.

I’m sure studies on its effectiveness on treating acne will come out soon, especially if the device is viable.

It’s possible we will also see this device used as a sanitizer for personal care tools, wounds and used in dental practices.

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